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Fully Restored Porsche 911 T Coupe From 1973, To Be Raffled

Porsche 911 T Coupe 1973 restored by Porsche Classic

If you are a member of the Porsche Club of America (PCB), you’re probably counting the days left until the parade. The car in this image is a fully restored 1973 Porsche 911 T Coupe that was brought back to life by the Porsche Classic in Germany and at the end of this month, on July 31st, it will be raffled-off to a very lucky PCA member during the Porsche Parade which will be held in Savannah, Georgia.

This is one of the units from the last year of production of Porsche’s F-model and was found to be in a “pitiful” condition somewhere in sunny California. The car is powered by a 6-cylinder, 2.4-liter engine that produces 138 hp (140 PS / 103 kW), enough for hitting a top speed of 127 mph (205 km/h).

Source: Porsche via WCF

Selling Used Collector Car

Mercedes SL 300 Gullwing

Selling just about any type of product requires effort and planning. Unless you want to sell it ASAP to get rid of it from your garage, selling it at a fair market price will take some time. First of all, you’ll need to prepare the vehicle for the actual sale.

In order to do so, you must do any mechanical work that is necessary as well as cosmetic work to make the car look better. After you’ve got that covered, you must detail the car inside and out. If you have any spare parts that you will give to the buyer, gather all of them in one place. Next, get all the relevant records and paperwork that will be of interest to any potential customer. After that, take high quality photos of the interior, exterior and at the engine compartment.

The process continues by setting a target price for the car. To do so, you will have to go through the price tags of other cars that are similar to yours in order to find out the real market value of the vehicle that you plan on selling. In figuring out the price, you will have to ask yourself some questions:

a) Do I need to sell the car as soon as possible?

b) Is the market of collector cars rising, sinking or holding steady?

c) Is my car popular among collectors or buyers are not really interested in such a model?

d) What is the current market value for my car?

e) What is the condition of my car?

After you’ve answered yourself these questions, now is time to prepare and execute your marketing plan.

First of all, you’ll need to think about how you are going to sell the car. You need to choose one (or a combination) of the following selling methods:

a) dealer / broker;

b) live and online auctions;

c) print and online advertising;

d) car show or car corral.

When considering how you are going to market and advertise, think about where to advertise and which dealer/broker, website, car show, auction, etc. to choose from. You will have to prepare the suitable materials, like creating signs, writing ads and preparing an online description.

Now time has come to execute your marketing/advertising plan by placing ads, submitting online listings and signing dealer consignment or auction forms.

When choosing the media to offer you car the much needed exposure, take into consideration the following:

a) news – local, regional and national;

b) online – www.autotrader.com, www.hemmings.com as well as marquee-specific websites;

c) classified publications – AutoTrader, Hemmings Motor News, Old Cars Weekly, etc;

d) newsletters – specialty publications, local & national clubs;

e) magazines that have classified sections – Robb Report, Sports Car Market, Car Collector, etc. and club publications as well.

When you start writing your ad you need to keep it concise and clear and include the following basic information: year, make & model, exterior & interior color, engine size & type, mileage, original equipment condition, major options, price tag, phone number, e-mail address and the state where the car is located.

When taking photos, you should offer a wide variety of images that you will be posting online or even send to potential customers, here is what you should capture:

a) front three-quarter view;

b) rear three-quarter view;

c) front;

d) rear;

e) side;

f) engine compartment;

g) interior;

h) any significant flaws.

You also must mention the type of payment that you accept:

a) cash – in most cases you will be safe, but we highly recommend that you check the bills for counterfeits. You will find bill-checking pens at stationery stores;

b) personal / certified checks – you should hold the car right until the bank will confirm that the money have been transferred into your account. The certified checks do not offer more protection than a personal check so be very attentive;

c) bank or cashier’s check – you will be safe just as long as that check belongs from a real bank. We highly suggest that you make a phone call to the bank in order to verify that the check was issued or you can ask the bank to verify your funds. It would be best to deposit that check and let it clear, prior to handing out the vehicle;

d) electronic payment or wire transfer – transferring the funds directly from one financial institution to another would have to be one of the safest ways of payment. Before you release the collector car, get in touch with your bank to make sure that the funds have been transferred into your account.

Preparing and executing is very important in the process of selling used collector car but unfortunately many people tend to overlook this one. A regular bill of sale must include the following:

a) seller’s identification;

b) buyer’s identification;

c) proper identification of the vehicle;

d) the purchase price;

e) warranty statement;

f) signature & date.

As you can see, there are a lot of things that must be taken into consideration when selling a car, especially one that is so special. Since we are talking about a lot of money, there isn’t room for any mistakes as you won’t get a second chance. Prepare the car, develop a marketing plan, advertise it and then take care of the selling process being very attentive at all of the ramifications of this.

All-American 70s versus 2011

Hot Rod compared three epic car models in order to see what 40 years of technology combined with tradition can do to a brand. While the engine performance clearly went to the newer models, modern design and series manufacturing made the 2011 cars lose their duels in favor of tradition and originality. Nothing can beat a classic.

The ’69 Camaro SS 396 got into a one-on-one duel with the 2011 model of Camaro SS, the 70s Challenger faced the 2011 SRT8 of the same model and the Shelby Mustang GT500 met his ’69 ancestor.

Watch the full explained video here and make your choice.


Australian Classic Car

FJ Holden

If you are looking for an Australian Classic Car, this article will share some fine automotive examples that might peak your interest. Let’s start with the FJ Holden.

The FJ Holden was introduced back in 1953 and it became the most popular motorcar in all Australia, helping secure Holden’s position as the greatest automaker in the country. It was in fact an updated version of the previous FX and it turned out to be the car of choice in the 50s. In addition, for many Aussies, the FJ Holden was in fact the first car. Later on, the car was passed by the parents to their children who needed a vehicle to learn how to drive, which means that it had a very long life. It featured a horizontal chrome grille that had twin port “nostrils”, along with torpedo-style lights. Despite the rather rough road conditions in Australia, the FJ Holden was a very reliable vehicle.

Moving on to another great Aussie car, we find the legendary Holden Morano, considered to be the very first muscle car that was designed and built entirely in Australia. The first generation of the vehicle was available with a generous choice of 19 power units and transmission combinations. It not only looked very good, but featured the company’s trademark of durability and toughness. There were many variations of the model, like the HQ Monaro, HZ GTS and the HX Monaro.

Another fine example of a great Australian Classic Car is the Holden Torana, which was introduced in 1967. The first generation of the model was in fact a re-badged Vauxhall Viva, except for the 4-door hatchback (launched one year later), which had an all-Australian design. In late 1969 Holden launched the LC Torana, along with the Torana LJ, which was the last model based on the aforementioned Vauxhall Viva. In 1974, Holden launched an entirely new LH Torana, which was available with a choice of V4, V6 and V8 engines.

Chrysler Valiant Charger

Moving on to something that doesn’t wear the Holden badge, we find the Chrysler Valiant Charger, launched in 1971. It was available in four different versions, as follows: standard, XL, 770 and the all-mighty R/T model. Nowadays, these cars are very valued by collectors, especially the E49 model, of which Chrysler built only 149 units.

Ford Falcon XR

Last but certainly not least, the Ford Falcon XR. Launched in September, 1960, it was a very popular car of the decade. Despite the fact that the first ones had handling issues while on the difficult road conditions of the country, Ford Australia improved the sturdiness of the model and by the middle of the 60s, the car had a significant presence in the car market of that area. In 1966, Ford launched an all-new XR model that for the very first time had a V8 engine (for the XR model).

As you can see, there are lots of great classic cars in Australia, and these are only five examples of some excellent vehicles. Feel free to add other fine examples of Aussie-made classic cars.

Source: pages.ebay.com.au

Classic Car Inspection

If you are in the market for a classic car you need to be very attentive when you choose it as due to the age of these vehicles, some problems might occur and you need to be aware of all the facts before making the acquisition.  The classic car inspection should start with the verification of the VIN, checking out if it matches with the one on the original paperwork.

If the car that you want to buy has been restored, you should ask the seller to give you some photos taken before, during and after the process has been completed. Needless to say, it is highly recommended to check the car’s service history for repairs and scheduled maintenance to verify if the previous owner(s) took good care of the car.

Time has come to start the car and check to see if there is any smoke coming out of the exhaust. After doing that you should listen carefully to the engine while idle, when hot and cold. Next, reeve the engine and listen to any noises. Don’t stop the car, keep it running until the engine gets hot and verify again if there is any smoke coming from the exhaust.

The most comprehensive inspection you can do to a car, regardless if it is a classic car or any other type is to take it for a road test. If the seller of the vehicle will not allow you to test drive the car, you should look for another vehicle as that one most likely has serious problems. While driving the car, inspect the performance of the engine while accelerating and list to the noise coming from it at low and high speeds. Also, verify if there is any noise coming from the transmission or the transaxle. If the car is fitted with an automatic gearbox, check to see if the gearshifts are done in a smooth manner at all the shift points.

Check for any noise and vibration coming from the vehicle’s drive axle or the transfer case bearings. If the car is equipped with a manual transmission, verify the state of the clutch for slippage, chatter and engagement. Take the car on a road where you know that there are a lot of curves so you can see how the steering feels, if it is responsive and smooth. You will also have to thoroughly verify the condition of the brakes for effectiveness and operation, making sure that there are no noises.

Have a closer look at the speedometer, odometer, tachometer and the rest of the gauges to see if all work properly, including the ones for the oil, temperature and battery. In addition, take the car on a rough road to see how the suspension handles.

Now you should inspect the outside of the classic car to see if there are any signs of rust or damage. You will also have to verify the state of the tires to see if they need to be changed. After doing so, check the car’s body panels for any dents, dings, mismatched paint and other flaws. Do not forget to look for any improper repairs and chrome damage. Check to see if the doors, hood and trunk open properly. Look closer at all the windows for any signs of pitting, damages, cracks, repairs or wiper marks.

Verify if all the lights are operational: tail, brake, parking, hazard, reverse, turn, license plate, fog, interior and the ones on the dashboard.

A proper classic car inspection also includes verifying the condition of the interior. First of all, make sure that all the seatbelts (including the ones in the back) are operational. Next, test the heating system and see if the AC (if it has one) works as it should. Verify the audio system to see if the sound is crisp and clear. Here are other things that you can verify: horn, glove box, armrest, rear view mirror, fuel filler and interior trim, including carpets (look under to see if there are any signs of rust or repairs).

Don’t forget to verify the condition of the upholstery for any signs of wear, stains, fading, cracks and rips. Look more attentive at the dashboard for any signs of water damage. If the car is a convertible, inspect its folding mechanism.

After you have done all of the above, you should open up the bonnet and check for oil leaks. You should also inspect the air filter for oil and verify the condition of the timing belt/chain. Verify the oil for water, sludge, level and clarity. In addition, it is recommended that you should inspect all of the wiring, engine mounts, hoses, fluid levels and the belts (for wear and fraying).

In the end, there are a couple of miscellaneous things that you can verify, like the tires to see if they all have the same size, pressure and tread depth. Also, look at the spare and see if it matches the ones that equip the vehicle. Don’t forget to verify the condition of the windshield wipers.

Here is one last piece of advice that you should take into consideration when you decide to purchase a classic car. If during this inspection the seller of the vehicle attempts to point you in a different area of the car, it means that something is wrong with it so you should have a closer look to see what he is hiding. Write down any imperfections you find as these will “help” you lower the price tag of the vehicle while negotiating with the owner. As an example, if the tires need to be replaced, write that down and tell the owner that you will have to pay a couple of hundreds of dollars for replacing them so he should lower the asking price.

Lastly, get in touch with a mechanic and find out how much money you will have to invest after buying the car. Again, this will help you while negotiating the final price of the classic car.

Source: classiccars.about.com

American Muscle Car Legend – Ford Mustang

This week’s “classic cars” article is dedicated to my favorite muscle car of all times, the legendary Ford Mustang. The first generation of the model was launched back in April 17, 1964 and the 1965 Mustang was Ford’s most successful launch since the famous Model A. The “Mustang” nameplate is the third oldest nameplate in production, after the F-Series pickup truck line and the Falcon. The Ford Mustang is considered to be the first “pony car” in the world – a sports car-like coupe that has a long bonnet and short rear decks.

The first production car rolled off the assembly line on March 9, 1964 and it was introduced to the general public on April 17, 1964 at the New York World’s Fair. The name “Mustang” is credit to executive stylist John Najjar, who was a big fan of the P-51 Mustang, a WW II fighter plane. He was involved in the design of the prototype.

The first generation of the model was produced from 1964 until 1973. The overall development of the car lasted only 18 months and the T-5 prototype was a 2-seat, mid-mounted engine roadster. It was powered by a Taunus (Ford Germany) V4 engine. The reason why Ford abandoned the 2-seat design was because of the poor sales of its 1955 Thunderbird model, another 2-seater. For this reason, it was remodeled as a 4-seater. The “Fastback 2+2” model traded the car’s regular trunk for more interior volume, along with adding exterior lines that looked a lot like the one found on the 2nd gen Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray or the iconic Jaguar E-Type. This version was not available as a 1964 1/2 model, but the first car was built on August 17, 1964.

To achieve an affordable $2,368 MSRP and to shave off development costs, Ford used lots of simple and familiar components, many of them borrowed from the company’s other models. The chassis, drivetrain, suspension and the interior were derived from the Fairlane and Falcon models.

1973-1978 Ford Mustang II

The second generation of the Ford Mustang was launched in 1974 and was manufactured until 1978. Lee Iacocca, who worked for the development of the original model, became the president of the company in 1970 and he wanted a more fuel-efficient and smaller Mustang. The first plans were to launch a model based on the company’s Maverick, but Ford changed its mind and opted for the Ford Pinto. Introduced just two months before the oil crisis of 1973, it had a reduced size, making it a worthy rival for the Toyota Celica. During its first year, Ford managed to sell 385,993 units of its Mustang II model in comparison to the first generation that managed 418,812. The model was available in both coupe and hatchback versions, along with a “Ghia” luxury edition.

1985–1986 Ford Mustang GT

The third generation debuted in 1979 and was built until 1993. It was based on Ford’s longer Fox platform that was initially developed for the Fairmont and the Mercury Zephyr models. The cabin was updated in order to accommodate four people in comfort, although it had a smaller back seat. The body styles available for the 3rd gen model were: coupe (aka notchback), hatchback and a cabrio version. It was available in various trim levels: L, GL, GLX, LX, GT, Turbo GT, SVO, Cobra and the Cobra R.

2002 Ford Mustang Convertible

In 1994 Ford launched the fourth generation of the Mustang and produced it until 2004. The entry-level model featured a V6 3.8-liter OHV engine that produced 145 hp for the 1994 and 1995 models and 150 hp for the 1996-1998 models. This power unit was linked to a 5-speed manual gearbox or a 4-speed automatic transmission. The design of the car underwent some serious changes and was based on the company’s updated version of the RWD Fox platform, dubbed “Fox-4”.

2007-2009 Ford Mustang GT/CS

The fifth and latest generation of the Ford Mustang was introduced in 2004 at the North American International Auto Show and it was an entirely redesigned model, based on Ford’s all-new D2C platform for the 2005MY. The design reminds us of the late 1960s fastback Mustang and its exterior style was developed by Sid Ramnarace.

The 2005-2009 models had a V6 4.0-liter SOHC engine that produced 210 hp, replacing the old V6 3.8-liter pushrod engine. The “GT” version had a more powerful V8 4.6-liter engine that delivered 300 hp.

The 2010MY was launched in the spring of 2009 and brought changes to the GT version which was updated to similar specifications to that of the 2008-2009 Mustang Bullitt V8 4.6-liter, producing 315 hp @ 6,000 rpm and a peak torque of 325 lb.-ft (441 Nm) @ 4,250 rpm. It also came with new spring rates and dampers for improving control and ride quality, new wheel sizes and it was offered as standard with stability and traction control.

2011 Ford Mustang

For the 2011MY, Ford updated all of the engines in the Mustang lineup. They also replaced the hydraulic power steering pump with an Electronic Power Assist Steering, which doesn’t use belts, making the car more maneuverable at low speeds and providing better grip at higher speeds.

A new addition is the V6 3.7-liter engine that weighs 40 lb less than the previous generation and packs 305 hp, while the peak torque is 280 lb.-ft.

The upcoming generation of the Ford Mustang is expected to be launched sometime in 2014 or early 2015. Rumors say that it will be based on a global platform and it will feature independent suspension.

Source: Wikipedia.org, Motor Authority | Photos: allfordmustangs.com

Pebble Beach Celebrates 50th Anniversary Of The Ferrari 250 GTO

Ferrari 250 GTO

Considered by many as Ferrari’s most desirable model of all time, the 250 GTO will celebrate this year its 50th anniversary. Up until last year, it was regarded as the most valuable car in the world. The car is popular for lots of reasons, one of them being that Ferrari only made 39 units, including a single prototype.

Ferrari 250 GTO

In addition, it has one of the most beautiful shapes that we’ve seen in a car and with its success in international racing back in the 60s, no wonder that Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance has decided to organize a gathering of as many cars as possible. They’ve sent an invitation to each of the 250 GTO owners, and more than 50% of them already confirmed their presence at the gathering.

Ferrari 250 GTO

Now, for a quick history lesson.

Ferrari 250 GTO

Ferrari produced this model from 1962 until 1964 for homologation into the Group 3 Grand Touring Car category. “250” denotes the displacement in cubic centimeters of each cylinder of the power unit, while “GTO” stands for “Gran Turismo Omologata”, which is Italian for “Grand Touring Homologated.”

Ferrari 250 GTO

The price tag for the car when it was first launched in the United States was $18,000. It wasn’t enough if you had the money as you’d had to be approved by Enzo Ferrari and Luigi Chinetti, his North American dealer.

Ferrari 250 GTO

The car was based on the Ferrari 250 GT SWB and was powered by a V12 3.0-liter engine borrowed from the 250 Testa Rossa. It had an A-arm front suspension and a live-axle rear eand, along with disc brakes and Borrani wire wheels. The engine was mated to the Porsche-designed 5-speed gearbox, a premiere for Ferrari’s GT racing cars. As you would expect from a proper racing car, the interior was very basic and it didn’t had a speedometer. Most of the switches installed came from the tiny Fiat 500.

Ferrari 250 GTO

Source: AutoBlog, Wikipedia

Lamborghini 350 GTV – Inception

1963 Lamborghini 350 GTV

We’ve started the “Classic Cars” series last week with the Ferrari 125 S, the very first model produced by the “Prancing Horse”. This week, we’re going to dive into Lamborghini’s first days, talking about their first car, the 350 GTV.

1963 Lamborghini 350 GTV

You probably already know that Ferruccio Lamborghini became famous and wealthy by making tractors. Legend has it that he was jealous of all the attention that Enzo Ferrari got and he wanted to make his own car that would be faster. In order to satisfy his desire, Ferruccio built a new factory just to make his ideal sports car. However, the 350 GTV was developed and built at the tractor factory located in Cento, before the Sant’Agatha plant was up and running.

Ferrari 125 S – The First One Of The Breed

1947 Ferrari 125 S

It all started back in 1947 with the launch of the very first model produced and built by Ferrari of Modena, Italy. We are talking about the 125 S (also known as 125 Sport or 125). Despite the fact that it was preceded by Enzo Ferrari’s Auto Avio Costruzioni 815 (launched in 1940), the 125 S was in fact the first car to wear the Ferrari name. The debut occurred on May 11, 1947 at the Piacenza racing circuit.


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